With so many stalls, the best advice is to look for the biggest queue and join it.
For more formal dinner plans, try any of the wooden-fronted restaurants by the Hozen-ji Temple (12).
The signature dish is ramen, topped with tender pork slices and mountains of beansprouts.
An aperitif The Conrad’s 40 Sky Bar & Lounge (3) (conradhotels3.hilton.com) is the city’s hottest sundowner spot – and the Takoyaki in the Sky cocktail its most Osakan wheeze.
A takoyaki ball, a local speciality in the form of an octopus meatball, comes perched on top of a gin and blue curacao drink.
Upgrade to an Executive room for access to the Executive Lounge offering free continental breakfast and refreshments.
Suites feature city views, separate sleeping and living areas.
Nearby Festival Tower East (which also has a vast theatre in the basement, with regular performances from travelling orchestras and ballets) boasts the subterranean National Museum of Art (10) (jp/en).
There are rotating exhibitions, and it’s just acquired some contemporary Japanese art pieces. Open Monday to Friday 10am-5pm, 10am-9pm at weekends; 430 yen (£2.88) entry.
The city is easy to navigate on the efficient metro system (although the subway stations themselves are more like airports), and most of the sights you’ll want to see fan out from the central JR Osaka Station (4) (osakastation.com), so it’s easy to see things on foot.
Take a view You’ll arrive from Kansai Airport (5) into the sprawling central JR Osaka Station (4).
Dine with the locals Neon-lit Dotombori (11) is zingy at any time of day, but when the sun goes down it really gets going; and its boiled-sweet-coloured signs look particularly Instagrammable.